One day in Cairo

home cooked pigeons

This has been one of my best days in a while. It started last night, with eating home-cooked pigeon on the floor in the home of my dear friends in the old part of Cairo. Maghdy and his family repeated the treat I got (and filmed - see the programme and read about the family) about eight years back. I have seen them since and keep in frequent touch, especially with Esraa, their youngest daughter. If you have my last book, they appear there. I was so glad to see that they are doing good, in spite of the hard times Egypt still struggle with.

first date

As dinners here tend to stretch well beyond midnight, mornings are slow. I planned to visit the City of The Dead, but got a call from a couch surfer I had contacted. She invited me to Zamalek, the island in the Nile, for tea and a chat. The girl did not wear a higab (headscarf), so her giant curly hear (who would need a HUGE higab to be concealed) where flying in all directions. She lives in the better part of Cario, and has never seen the neighbourhoods I frequent, so I volunteered to be her guide later (read about Old Cairo). That will be interesting.

first taxi

    The taxis here are an adventure, and I believed something was wrong with mine, as it did not rush forward at any given opportunity. Suddenly I realised that the driver occasionally let competing cars pass him, where the street obviously were to narrow for two cars. He used what in Norway is called the "zipper-prinsiple", meaning the first car goes first, and you give way peacefully. You rarely see that here, and he was very pleased that I complimented this behaviour. Here is my previous experience of Taxi in Egypt.

second date

I had to kind of rush from my first appointment to the next, with another wonderful woman born and bread here. We were soon joined by a female friend of hers, this time in downtown Cairo. They both prefer to cover their hair, and as practically all women I talk with here, I got the stories about why they are not married, why they do not trust men and why they are kind of desperate to let go and live in a more liberal community.
    These two are from families that are somewhat less liberal than my first appointment, but dress like many modern women in Cairo, in tight western clothing, except for the hijab. If a man stick a paper note in their hand, it can be one out of two. Either his phone number or a quote from the Quran, advising them to dress more properly. All women here have stories of harassment, they get nowhere if they complain to the police about such incidents and they often need to use connections to get things done that is not "fit" for a woman. Like getting a license to drive a motorbike.

second taxi

I had to rush again, for my third appointment. This time the taxi driver was an older man, who hesitated a bit when I jumped into his front seat. I checked his meter (the white taxis have meters now!) and started arguing at once, as it did not start at 3 pounds at it should. I kept on bitching about this, until he pointed behind me, where another passenger already had a couple of blocks to go. All three of us burst out laughing.

Caroline :)

    Again heading for Zamalek, a car in front of us were utterly slow (for being in Cairo) so I put my head in my hands and made snoring sounds, which made my dear driver laugh so hard I was worried he would completely loose control of the car. His laugh changed into a terrible cough, bringing up age old nicotine from his suffering lungs, that had to be spit out the window, again endangering our safety. He looked at me and with a body language that was easy to interpret, made it clear that I was his most entertaining passenger in a while.

third date

We got there well before Caroline, the belly dancer that is also pictured in my book. She is Australian, loves Egypt and teaches and dances both here and abroad. It was lovely to meet again, and enjoy what most probably will be my only beer in these three weeks. She experience another side of Egyptian life that all others I know, both running a shelter for animals in need and doing her touring and teaching.

afterparty

It was getting late, and tomorrow will be a busy day, so I headed "home" to Hotel Hussein. I have to walk around the local alleys to see if something is going on, and settled in one of the cafes for a tea, after grabbing the waiter and waltzing around with him. Our performance was applauded by all the shop workers around us, and he gave me a nice seat in a group of men (of course).
    So, here follows the explanation why I contact women (I have written about Women in Egypt here and Men in Egypt as well). At least part of it. Women have a complete different version of life and culture than males, in this country. And getting in touch with men is easy-piecy. They love to talk. I can not, however, sit down in a group of women, at least not in this, more traditional part of town. The waiter would normally tell me to sit at another table. The trick is therefore to contact interesting women on Couch Surfing and ask them if they would lie to meet. Three out of five said yes, and they are simply great. Next step is to bring them to my cafes, in order to provoke a slight little bit. It is especially confusing to the guys here if my friend is wearing a higab. I just love that.

But, back to the four guys sitting at my table. Really nice guys. One speaking English well, the others not so much. Again, the conversation goes from sexual harassment, bodily needs, politics, caricature drawings to practice of Islam. Super interesting. They are polite, fun, honest and direct, and totally confirm ALL the problems and difficulties my female friends have shared with me earlier today.
    We laugh, we drink tea, I smoke sheeshaa (water pipe) and tell them exactly what I think is wrong with the way I do things. At the same time I understand their side, I understand which standards they live up to and I understand their political views. Typically, the most educated of them is against the present president Sisi, while two of the non English speaking loves him and the third, with a big smile, says "No comment".
    While we sit there, they are constantly approached by vendors of all kinds. As a tourist in Egypt, you must not believe that these touts are targeting tourists more than Egyptians. It is like a theatre of offers and rejections, bakshees (tips) and haggling. One boy is simply totally amazing, trying to sell some plastic propellers with coloured lights on them. Awesome salesman at the age of six.

my street vendors

It is way passed my bedtime when the guys leave. One of the street vendors, and older woman that I know from previous visits, sits down with me. She has had a good day, with no more flowers to sell. Her English is a bit better than two years ago. One colleague of hers ask if I want to buy paper tissues for a pound. I can't find any coins in my pocket, so I refuse. She gives me the tissues for free, and says I can pay to Allah later (if I understood it right). Then this wrinkled old woman ask if I need money, and try to give me five pounds! You have to love people like this, even if it is a joke. Of course I reject.

I ask them if they know Shadia, a girl I photographed eight years ago. She was selling head decoration of perls here in the bazaar. They know her, and the flower woman takes me out in the square and looks for her. After a few minutes she appear, totally beautiful, with great dimples and a wonderful smile when she see the big photo of herself in the book I have with me. I will definitely give the book to her later in my stay here.

So that is it. The flower woman has asked nothing of me, but a woman with scars after burns in her face, that has no husband but a kid on her shoulder, ask me for money. I ask my flower woman if this beggar is a good person worth giving too, so I give her a five pound note. That is actually too much, almost one Euro, but she is the only one today. The flower woman is just being helpful, not asking me anything, just being kind. I sure will buy roses from her one of these days, hopefully for one of my friends, when I bring them to this part of the city, that they know so little about.

Tomorrow is Esraas day, we will go to a fun fair and meet up with one other friend later. Esraa is smart and already speak well English, so I will introduce her to my modern friends, hoping she will be encouraged. Two years ago, we went to the pyramids together. She was fourteen, and that was her dream, as she had never been there. Read about that here.

My hotel:

Just forgot I lack a cable to connect my main camera, so you will have to do with these superqualtiy mobile-phone shots for now … :)


Have a look at my links to former blogposts, keep your mind open and be sure to come and have a look for yourself!

Animal Shelter in Cairo

Touch of Life Animal Shelter in Cairo, Egypt

Vibrant souls are lovely to get by. One of my favorites has more than her soul vibrating, as she is a famed belly dancer, instructor and choreographer in Cairo. She has completely disallowed me referring to her as my dirty dancer, but this is so hard to comply with after our trip to TOUCH OF LIFE animal shelter. That is, you see, what her soul vibrates for - animals. And they are not always clean...

Caroline Evanoff, belly dancer

belly dancer and cat woman

Caroline Evanoff is Australian, but has lived in Cairo lots of years. I met her there six years ago, and wrote about her in my last book. Her nature impressed me. I actually never even saw her perform in front of an audience, but check out the videos on youtube (see her dance here or here) - she is really great. But don't get to exited - this post is all about her affection for animals.
    There are so many people in need of care and funds in Egypt. Why rescue a dog, when there are humans to save? Well... dogs, cats, donkeys and foxes are living creatures in need of love, food and medical care too.
    Caroline is primarily a cat woman, and she spends a considerable amount of her time and hard earned money to rescue and care for cats and other animals found to die in the streets. She is, to be very frank, one of the sweetest and kindest women I ever met.

a safe haven

I came along when she was visiting a refuge for animals just outside Central Cairo. Touch of Life animal shelter is run by it funder Anouchka Mellin, a French woman that has dedicated her life to the well being of animals. She is hard core, all in.
    A canal with smelly discolored water runs along the dirt road leading to the gate, and walls and fences surrounds the plot. Around us is the typical farmland slowly succumbing to residential brick constructions. It is one of many suburbs looking exactly as this one, except for the lucky animals found inside these premises.

 















 Anouchka meets us in the yard in front of the house, a bit ashamed of her looks, as a donkey or something kicked out some of her teeth the other day. We hand over some bananas and a huge bundle of carrots, which are fed to the goats and donkeys behind the house.
    I proudly succeed to find a lost puppy dog that has escaped from the soft nest inside a car tyre and say hello to the only dogs to be put up in a cage. About fifteen others run around freely, but I am told that the big, tranquil looking German Shepard now behind bars will kill and eat if he is let out, due to bad treatment of the previous owners. People can be such assholes.

my dirty dancer ...  :)

Max and his rescuer

Every animal has a story here. Caroline has a special relationship to Max, a dog she saved from the street where she lives. She is teaching the kids in the neighborhood to treat animals with respect, and they now come to her when they find maltreated ones.

Anouchka Mellin and client

    "The animals always remember their rescuer," Caroline claims, while Max, as to prove the point, leaps up stamping his soiled paws all over his savior, giving my belly dancing friend her dirty image.

families wanted

Volunteers make sure food and medicine are distributed according to needs, as Anouchka takes care of a horse that is here for a weeks care. It has been working too hard, with an ugly infection in the leg. Sometimes the farmers even bring buffalos. She asks me if I am afraid of cats.
    "No," I reply, a bit surprised. There are cats around, and I'd say I act pretty much not scared.
    "Good," she says. "Then you can come into the house. You'd better have your camera ready, they'll be waiting for you."

"Who's at the door?"

"Hi. I'm Fluffy. I live here. I'm a ... dog, right?"

I never ever saw anything like this. Cats of all colors, plus Fluffy. He is a dog (later being happily adopted into an English garden with green grass). Some cats are proud. One is blind. Most of them are extremely cosy. A few, recently arrived, are shabby. A couple of them crawl right up my trousers and continue to enjoy the view from my shoulders. They all hope for a kind person or a family to take care of them and give them the affection they deserve.

Affection in its true form. I am a cat person. Fortunately.

If you do not really like cats, you would probably freak out in wild panic in this house, as everything indoors seems to be moving, with fur and a tail. Hitchcock couldn't have designed this better. But I do like it. It is something very good about all this, and the cats seem to be relieved to be here, largely at peace with each other and their caretakers, who bring in bags of yummy cat food. Fluffy likes it too. I suspect he assumes he's a cat by now.

Anouchka Mellin

wanna help?

I think I will let the photos speak for themselves, and I hope this non-commercial animal shelter will continue to get the funding they need from the friends of the foundation, even in these hard times. It does, of course, take more than vibrating souls to feed all the wonderful animals.

If you feel like helping, your contribution will be very much appreciated. The money will be very well spent, I can vouch for that. If you live in Egypt, you might also contribute as a volunteer or by giving an animal a new home. If you live anywhere else - be good to an animal near you!

For Donations, contact: Anouchka Mellin
Mobile: +2010 1963712
E-Mail : Anouchka(a)link.net OR : touchoflifeorg(a)yahoo.com OR Mobile: +20117385650
Follow Touch of Life on Facebook.
Payment can be done here.

Two of a kind. I love them.

miauw

PP 3: Egypt

Jeg har vært i Egypt en rekke ganger, og setter enormt pris på landet og folket. En vidunderlig ting med å vende tilbake er at vennskap holdes ved like og utvikler seg. I episode 3 fra "Pauls Planet - Balkan og Egypt", som ble spilt inn i 2007, med tilbakeblikk til 2000, tar jeg deg med på en rundtur i landet før jeg stopper opp ved vennene mine i Kairo. Vennskap går på tvers av alder, kultur, religion og kjønn.

2007, hjemme hos Magdy.

Nå, fem år senere.

Min vennskapsfamilie i De Dødes By og Esraas (Esraas Greatest Dream) familie i Darb Al Ahmar er de beste eksempler på hvor godt og morsomt det er å huske på hverandre. Jeg føler spesielt sterkt for Esraa, som var åtte år gammel da jeg så henne sist. Nå er hun tretten, og snakker engelsk med meg. Litt kult er det, at hun har siste kommentar i episoden:



(varighet 25 min, i 4:3 og begrenset oppløsning, men historien er vel verdt det...)

Jeg er ganske sikker på at det ikke vil gå fem år til vi sees igjen. Esraa er nysgjerrig, vitebegjærlig, undrende, smart og morsom. Det er akkurat piker som henne som kan gjøre en forskjell i Egypt, og det er jeg sikker på at hun kommer til å gjøre. Hun sier det vel best selv, i videoen ovenfor: "I love you!"

God Reise

Hotels in Cairo

Cairo is fogged up by teargas and riot police are shooting at demonstrators around Tahrir demanding a second revolution. In times like these, you'd better lay low as tourist, but traveling to Egypt will soon be easy again, so I will now give you my best advice in where to stay.
    You really should go. Mainly for your own sake but also for the sake of a country that really, really need you and deserve your visit. Let me recommend two very different hotels, both great value: The Golden Hotel (homepage / Trip Advisor) downtown in Talaat Harb Street and The Hotel El Hussein (Trip Advisor -entertaining reviews...) in Midan Hussein.

Midan Hussein, hotel in the middle, mosque to the right

I suggest these two cool places in a deliberate order. My personal advice is to give your Kairo-visit a boost by spending two or three nights in Hussein before settling in the much nicer Golden for the rest of your stay.
    There are obviously many other possibilities, also in the price range in between these two, but generally you get what you pay for.

Best balcony in town, because of ...

... best balcony view in Cairo! 

Hussein Hotel

This old hotel could be so much better if it was renovated. It looks pretty graaceful from outside, but turns out to be everything but, inside... It certainly is cheap, and for being that cheap it also seems safe.

The pro's: Has the best location in Egypt. Right on the square of Midan Hussein, skirting the amazing maze of a market called Khan Il Khalili. You will be entertained around the clock in this place, as you have two of Cairos biggest mosques on either side of you, the grand Hussein Mosque and the elegant Al-Azahr. Having the mighty call for prayor in stereo on your private balcony is a near must when you visit Egypt.

Ash in the ashtray!

The con's: The historical elegance of the building has faded into serious decay, with dirt in the stairs, dirt in the rooms, dirt on the balconies, unwashed ashtrays, peeling paint falling from the ceiling, no towel but cockroaches. My parents decided never to touch the floor, and kept teir luggage on chairs to avoid an invasion of critters.

Simple breakfast.

    The breakfast is the classic cheap one, consisting of two semi-dry breadrolls, butter, jam and coffee or tea. If you want juice, you must pay extra.
    It is also somewhat unclear how to pay how much tips to who, as the staff in the restaurant indicate that they get nothing if you pay the boss and tell him to share... but I will try to deal with the tip-subject later.

Golden Hotel has clean and good bathrooms.

13. Talaat Harb Street!

Golden Hotel

Moving upmarket to find a truly comfortable atmosphere as a safe haven in a hectic city, I can think of nothing better than Golden Hotel. Still a lot cheaper than the expensive ones, offering all you need, really!

the pro's: This is everything that Hussein is not. It is spotlessly clean, newly renovated with beautiful blue tiles in the bathrooms, great beds, Wi-Fi and a very central location. It is run by the lovely and helpful Sophia, which may end up mothering you with knowledge and advice. She is Swiss and a part-owner of the establishment.

Beautiful ...

... clean ...

... rooms!

    The rate of the room is nearly the triple of that in Hussein Hotel, but you will quickly understand why, if you spend one night in each place. You here have a clean fridge, new air condition and a flatscreen with the channels you need.

Huge rooftop area, sit inside our outside as you like.

A memorable breakfast.

Needless to say, the breakfast is also considerably better than in the hotel first mentioned, with fresh toast and an omelette being prepared for you as you sit there. Drink as much coffee and tea as you need, and have yogurt and a glass of juice, fresh cheese and marmalade.
    For hot days, or just if you need some time away from everything, the roof terrace is great for getting away from it all. You will be surprised by how nice it is up there, even with some flowers that managed to survive the last dust-storm that tormented the city...
    Need a guide or a long distance taxi? Sophia is good friends with taxi-Ali, who also became my friend, and now also with Amira, who was first my guide and is a wonderful person. More of that later. The Egyptian Museum is practically next door, by the way.

A lovely staff keeps everything spotless!

the con's: The only drawback I can think of, is the proximity to the revolution.     It is situated on 13. Talaat Harb Street, which is just a block and a half away from Midan Tahrir - The Revolution Square. This means that in times of trouble you might have difficulties reaching this hotel. If you are unsure, call Sophia and ask about the conditions, she is honest and frank about it. I rather trust her than an embassy. The present unrest will certainly subside.
    (You might find these photos on their homepage, they got them from me in exchange for a couple of nights...)

Suvenirs in Tahrir...

Safety:

I have never experienced, nor heard of, any kind of theft or trickery in any of these hotels. Egypt is in general a very safe country to travel in, thanks to culture and religion. Stealing is simply not an option.
    I left Cairo just a few days before rioting started in January. During my month in town I hardly saw police on the streets, as they were laying low not to provoke. Street vendors jammed road lanes in the centre, the main Square was all blocked off and things simply did not run as smoothly as before - but I never ever experienced, saw or heard of a pickpocket. Egypt is indeed a remarkable country. Go there!

Welcome to Egypt!

Esraas greatest dream

Time for a guest writer! I have proudly presented one a long time ago, by my niece Sara, and this time it is Esraa who will contribute to the blog. We have had a wonderful day together, after she told me her greatest dream was to see the pyramids. She lives about 15 kilometers away from them, but have never had the chance to visit.

... story!

Esraas ...

... own ...

First you will have her story, as written in her notebook without me asking her. It was a great surprise for me. After that, the text follows in Norwegian. We had a very, very nice day together! I should add that Esraa is 13 years old and lives in the narrowest streets in the old part of Cairo. We have been friends for five years, and she is in my last book and in my documentary about Kairo. I am very proud of her, she is smart, fun and adventurous and she has a very, very good family that I am very fond of.

Esraa is 13 years old and her dream is to be a tourist guide, so she likes languages and history..

Esraa's story:

Yesterday I was in pyramidse with Paul alon I will talking about all the day from the morning to evening. I woke up at nine o'clock and haved the breakfast after this. I breaking the my clothe after this my father called Paul and say for him "Hi Paul, how are you?"
    Paul: "Fine."
    Father: "You know, when I went to my fork they say for my you have holiday and I will go with you and Esraa to the pyramids."
    Paul: "OK, I will have a breakfast and I will came."
    Father: "OK, I will wait you."
    After about half past o'clock Paul is coming and my say hello for him, then he haved tea and sayed for my father: "After our trip my and Esraa will go to Amira to have a dinner and I say for Amira I will come and Esraa just and she don't know you."

... I have a dream ...

Then I ask my father what about he talking. Say: "You and Paul will go to pyramids alone then Paul haved the tea and I wear the shoes then say bay for father and dawen my and Paul we walke about 5 killo to Bab El Khalaa and take takxi then we talk my and Paul and I asked him: "You have nals to out with then say: "Yes."
    "Thay very lucky ta have a good uncle like you," and he say for my:
    "I am happy  because  your father and mother traste of my to you go with my."
    I say: "They love you for this I going with you."
    "Say: "Thanks."

After this he gives me a l´plane for pyramides because he went to pyramides fourth time and he say:
    "The mans pepole will talk with you a lot and you have to tell for thaem "No, shokran!" but after this you will draving camel."
    Say: "What, alone?"
    Say: "Yes, because I went to there four times and will be exbensive?"
    Then the takxi ask me he want to driving a camel and I ask Paul he say for me we will driver but don't say for him because he will take money for himself.
    Say: "You are right."
    Then say for driver: "No, he went to pyramids before."
    Driver say for me: "OK, as he like."

The city has grown too close to the pyramids!

Then we finish the rode Paul say for driver "stop here" and gives him fivety because he don't have change he say "OK". Then Paul taked a photos from the front and pyramides and building then we enter to there and buy some eat and have a breakfast and shuwbs (Schweppes) golde apples ten Paul taked photo for me then Paul say for the man:
    "We can to eat two sandwetchs."
    Man say: "OK", then man say for Paul: "Do you want to take a camel or horses to enter to pyramides because it's 12 kilometeres."
    Paul say: "No thanks, I like walking."
    And he ask me too, and I say: "I like walking too."

Then we go, go, go 12 kilometers and Paul paid 60 pounds for himself because he is tourist and paid for me 2 pound then Paul enter W.C. and paid for him one pound then he finished and went and go go go go go go ...

Everybody makes a photo holding one pyramid, but few hold ... ...

... two!

Then we enter to pyramides and he say for me stand there and I did so he taked picter for my behend the pyramid after them men come he called Hassan and him brother Ali say:
    "You can to take photo on the camel."
    and I asked he: "Free?"
    He say: "Free!"
    Then Paul taked photo from me after Hassan say for me: "Do you come back after trip to driving a camel?"
    I say: "Yes."
    Then, we went to secnd pyramid and enter in it. Then Paul Paul say for me: "Sit down and turn off your eyes and thinking and thinking about this place ... and I did this."

Then we out from pyramid and called Ali because I taked him number from before and say for him: "Hi, I am Esraa. Was with Paul form Darb el Ahmar."
    And he say: "Yes, of course. I am remember, I will come to you now."
    And after five minute we rode camel and taked a lot of photos and Paul talked with the beautiful man from Celfornia and he know for him something about another coutry. Then we walked in desert about 15 kilometers and he liked to take a photo from the place where people died. And I say for him:
    "Everything will die" and I asked him about him religion.
    He say: "I don't have religion."
    I say: "Why?"
    He say. "Because I have a heart to say for me what wrong and what right."
    And I talk with him about Muhamed and say to for him: "Every person don't believe in God will enter the hill."
    He say: "For me do you think i will enter the hill?"
    I say: "I can't answer about this question," and he smile.

Then we aout from pyramides and he was don't have a lot of money, then we down from the desert and we meet a man police. They say for me: "You can to take photo with the camel."
    And I say: "Yes, why not?"
    Paul taked a photo for me, and the police say for Paul: "I want to some money!"
    Paul say: "No, you policeman, don't baksheesh!"

Not a very soft kiss!

We crossed the metal wall and the man say for Paul: "Good idea!"
   Paul say: "It is the Egyptian system!"
   Then we went to take photo with sphinx, when I was kissed it, after we went to out and Paul and Paul was wanted to take money from VISA and it was closed. After Paul called Amira to know how we come to be in her house. He say for Amira: "I will call you when we ride a takxi to speak with her to find her home...
    "Oh!" I'm forget to say who is be Amira: -Amira is a friend of Paul. She work with tourists. Her job is tourist guide and Paul love her like him sister and he say about she good words. - Come back to our speak: Back to story: We went to Amiras home, she and her brother and her sister. She say hello for us and she brought food for us and it was very good. Paul eat, me eat and Paul say him trousers was very dirty from our trip for brother Amira.

Esraa and Amiras family.

Then we finised our food and I went to washed my hands and sat and drinked tea, me and Paul was talking, talking, talking with Amira brother about what I don't know. After Paul finished the tea, Amira do for him milk with banana and Amira asked me: "Do you want milk with banana like Paul?"
    I say: "No, thanks."
    After, Paul say for Amira: "Esraa need to dictionary."
    Amira say: "I don't have dictionary from arabic to English, I have from English to English."
    Then Amira went to the room and come back with some book talking about history. We saw it and Paul finshed milk with banana. Amira called for her sister, because she was in kitchen: "Come to take a photo," because she was in kitchen for help Amira to maked food.
    Then sister come and Paul taked a photo for us, after Amira show for us the home. Then Paul sat and talk, talk, talk, and went with Amira to window to see the street and I taked her number.

Then we should to say byebye for Amira family, and Amira brother went with us to know us how we can go before I go, say for Amira: "I should to buy a dictionary!"
    She say for me: "Sure we can, but Thursday."
    "I say: "OK."

Then we went to the road to take a bus to arrive us to Metro station. From before we arrived at Metro, I bought harnkash (fruit) to Paul. Then we rode the Metro and we stopped in Mohamed Nagib square. We should to see GPS on mobile to know road, and we walk, walk, walk. Then we arrived to Bab El Khalaa.
    Then we walk, walk to arrive in my home and the final: We arrived to my home and when I was walking with Paul I say for him: "My family now misses me, and you too!"
    He smiled.

conclusion

He sat to drink tea with my father and talk with him about our nice trip. And I tlk with my sister and my mother about our trip and Paul show photos for them.
    Then Paul say: "I have to go now."
    My father say: "Bye bye".
    My mother say: "Bye bye."
    My sister say: "Bye bye."
    Me say: "Bye bye," and thanked him for this trip.

I think his name is "Casanova"...

Esraas historie på norsk:

I går var jeg ved pyramidene med Paul, helt alene med ham, og jeg vil fortelle om hele dagen fra start til slutt. Jeg våknet klokken ni, spiste frokost og kledde på meg.

    Så ringte far til Paul og spurte: "Hei Paul, hvordan står det til?"

    "Fint," sa Paul.

    "Vet du, når jeg kom på jobben sa de at jeg får en uke ferie, så jeg blir med deg og Esraa til pyramidene."

    "OK, la meg spise frokost, så kommer jeg," sa Paul.

    "OK, jeg venter på deg," svarte far.

    Etter omtrent en halvtime kom Paul og jeg hilste på ham, så drakk vi te og så sa han: "Etter turen vår skal jeg og Esraa besøke Amira og jeg sa til Amira at bare Esraa og jeg kommer. Hun kjenner ikke deg."

    Jeg spurte far hva han mente, og far sa: "Du og Paul drar til pyramidene alene."

Paul drakk te og jeg tok på meg skoene, sa hade til far og gikk ned med Paul. Så gikk vi omtrent fem kilometer (max. halvannen, red) til Bab El Khalaa og tok taxi derfra.

    Jeg og Paul snakket i taxien og jeg spurte ham om han har en niese han tar med på ting, og det sa han at han har.

    "Da er hun veldig heldig som har en onkel som deg!"

    "Og jeg er veldig glad for at moren og faren din stoler på meg og lar deg følge med meg!" svarte han.

    Jeg svarte: "De er veldig glade for at jeg får være med deg."

Et godt sted å filosofere.

Etter dette gav Paul meg en plan for pyramidebesøket, for han har vært der fire ganger og forklarte: "Mange folk kommer til å spørre deg om masse rart, men du skal bare si "nei, takk", men litt senere skal du få ri på en kamel."

    "Hva? Alene?" spurte jeg.

    "Ja, for jeg har vært her fire ganger og det er dyrt."

    Så spurte drosjesjåføren meg om jeg ville ri kamel, og jeg spør Paul men han sier vi ikke skal ta ham, for han vil bare stikke ekstra penger i egen lomme.

    "Du har nok rett," sa jeg, og så sa jeg til drosjesjåføren: "Nei, han har vært ved pyramidene før."

    "OK, som han vil," svarte sjåføren.

Når kjøreturen var over bad Paul sjåføren stoppe og gav ham en femtilapp, for han hadde ikke vekslepenger. Så tok Paul et bilde av pyramidene med bygninger foran, så stoppet vi for å kjøpe mat og Schweppes med eplesmak. Paul fotograferte meg og sa til mannen "Vi tar to sandwicher."

    Mannen sa "OK, og trenger du kamel eller hest, for det er 12 kilometer å gå inne rundt pyramidene."

    "Nei takk, jeg liker å gå," sa Paul.

    "Jeg liker også å gå," sa jeg.

Deretter gikk og gikk og gikk vi 12 kilometers (max halvannen, red ;-) ) og Paul betalte 60 pund for seg selv fordi han er turist og to for meg. Så skulle han på do, og jeg betalte ett pund for ham. Da han var ferdig gikk og gikk og gikk vi ...

    Inne på området bad Paul meg stille meg opp så han kunne ta bilde av meg bak pyramiden, og så kom det to menn, de var brødrene Hassan og Ali.

    "Dere kan ta bilde av deg på kamelen."

    "Gratis?" spurte jeg.

    "Helt gratis," svarte jeg.

    Paul fotograferte meg og så spurte Hassan: "Kommer du tilbake etterpå for å ri på kamelen? Bare tjue pund."

    "Ja," svarte jeg.

med mobilkamera i "kongekammeret"

Så gikk vi inn i pyramide nummer to. Paul bad meg sette meg ned og lukke øynene og tenke på hva slags sted dette er. Så det gjorde jeg.

Utenfor igjen ringte jeg til Ali, for jeg hadde jo tatt nummeret hans: "Hei, dette er  Esraa, jeg er med Paul fra Darb El Ahmar."

    "Selvsagt husker jeg dere," sa han. "Jeg kommer med det samme."

    Og fem minutter senere red vi kamel og tok masse bilder og Paul snakket med en vakker mann fra California og visste mye om landet han kom fra.

    Deretter gikk vi omtrent 15 kilometer i ørkenen (max to...  ;-), red) og Paul fotograferte utikten over en kirkegård. "Alt kommer til å dø," sa jeg til ham, og spurte ham om religionen hans.

    "Jeg har ikke en bestemt religion."

    "Hvorfor ikke?"

    "Fordi jeg har et hjerte som forteller meg hva som er rett og galt," svarte han.

    Så snakket jeg med ham om Muhamed og fortalte ham: "Alle mennesker som ikke tror på Gud kommer til Helvete."

    "Tror du virkelig at jeg kommer til helvete?" spurte han.

    "Det spørsmålet kan jeg ikke svare på, sa jeg.

    Da smilte han.

På vei ned fra ørkenen møtte vi politimenn på kamel. "Du kan fotograferes med oss, sa de."

    "Ja, hvorfor ikke," sa jeg.

    Paul tok bilde av meg, og så sa politimannen til Paul: "Gi meg litt penger."

    "Nei, du er politimann, du får ikke baksheesh," sa Paul.

Paul hadde ikke så mye penger, men vi klatret gjennom et hull i et metallgjerde (for å komme inn til Spinx'en etter stengetid, red).

    "Det var en god ide!" sa en mann.

    "Egyptisk system!" svarte Paul.

    Vi tok bilder av at jeg kysset sphinxen og så gikk vi ut og Paul forsøkte å heve penger med VISA-kortet men banken virket ikke. Så ringte han Amira for å spørre om hvordan vi skulle finne fram til huset hennes. "Jeg ringer deg fra en taxi når vi finner en, så får du forklare deg til sjåføren," sa Paul til henne.

Maten smakte kjempegodt.

    Åh! Jeg har jo helt glemt å fortelle hvem Amira er! Huner en venninne av Paul som jobber som guide, Paul elsker henne som en søster og han snakker bare pent om henne. Men for å fortsette historien, så dro vi til hennes hjem, hvor broren og søsteren var. De hilste på oss og gav oss veldig god mat. Paul og jeg spiste og Paul fortalte broren til Amira at buksene til Paul er kjempemøkkete etter turen vår.

    Så spiste vi ferdig og jeg vasket hendene før vi drakk te. Jeg og Paul snakket og snakket og snakket med broren til Amira, men jeg vet ikke helt om hva. Når paul hadde drukket teen, fikk han melk med banan av Amira. "Har du lyst på melk med banan, slik Paul drikker?" spurte Amira.

    "Nei takk," svarte jeg.

    "Amira trenger en ordbok," sa Paul til Amira.

    "Jeg har bare Engelsk-Engelsk, ikke Arabisk-Engelsk," svarte Amira. Så gikk hun til rommet sitt og kom tilbake med en historiebok. Vi kikket i den og Paul drakk opp sin melk med banan.

    Amira ropte så på søsteren sin, som var i kjøkkenet for å hjelpe til med maten: "Kom å bli med på et bilde!"

    Søsteren kom og Paul tok bilde av alle sammen, og så viste Amira oss rundt i leiligheten. Så snakket og snakket og snakket de, og Paul og Amira gikk til vinduet for å se ned på gaten. Så fikk jeg nummeret hennes.

Da vi skulle si farvel til Amiras familie og broren ble med for å vise vei, sa jeg til Amira: "Jeg må kjøpe en ordbok."

    "Det kan vi gjøre sammen, men på torsdag."

   "OK," svarte jeg, og så krysset vi veien for å ta en buss til Metroen. Før vi fant den, kjøpte jeg litt god frukt til paul og så tok vi metroen til Mohmed Nagib plassen.

Vi måtte se på GPS'en på telefonen for å vinne riktig vei, og så gikk og gikk og gikk vi helt til Bab El Khalaa, og enda lenger helt til vi var hjemme. Og når vi vi gikk sammen sa jeg til ham: "Familien min savner meg nok nå ... og deg også!"

Han smilte.

Han drakk te med far og snakket med ham om den fine turen vår, og jeg snakket med søsteren og moren min om reisen vår og Paul viste dem bildene.

    Så sa Paul: "Jeg må gå nå."

    Far sa: "Farvel."

    Mor sa: "Farvel."

    Søsteren min sa: "Farvel."

    Jeg sa: "Farvel, og takket ham for turen."

Trygt hjemme igjen, klokken halv ti om kvelden!

Takk for turen, Amira!