Tough Currents and Women

       (Please do click on these - and all other - photos in my blog, to see them bigger!!!)

Good guy...

the "harbour"

Mykines north face

IMPOSSIBLE TO LEAVE?

"Today nobody gets away from Mykines," one of the elders said, overlooking the heavy swells that sent cascades of foam shooting up in the air. The small boat landing had the Atlantic delivering series of waves, making the bay white, breaking over shallows and cliffs.
    He did not know what a kayak can do.

tidal map

    "I will get out," I said, and pointed to an opening in the pattern of waves.
    "You might get out, but you will never get back," another old-timer commented in a factual voice.
    "You're right about that," I answered.

This is how people are on the Faroes. They know the sea. They do not express unnecessary worries. They trust your decisions. But as many islanders I have met in other parts, they care for you and help you, when help is needed. I assume this is an islanders specialty, and that it has always been like that out here, where you never know who will be in dire straits next.
    Today it is my turn, and I have to do my counting right.

the gorge with the rocks

TODAYS CHALLENGE

Firstly, I need to get into the water without being washed in by the breakers. Secondly I must get out into open sea. Thirdly I need to analyse the rhythm of the bigger waves, in order to pass through a narrow gorge that split Mykines from Holmur (where the tunnel in the former episode runs parallel to this canyon). Last but not least, I need to do this in time to get along the north side of the island and back east, crossing the open stretch back to the rest of the Faroes during the change of tide. If I am too late, I simply do not know where I will end up.

I have rarely kayaked as hard as I did that day. Something went wrong with my calculations of the countercurrents on the north side of Mykines. Nevertheless I reached the town Vestmanna, where I got to know a wonderful bunch of Women, most notably Mia.

NORTH COAST

Can you sense the complete awesomeness?

Further north, I skirt the most hostile coast you can imaging, but under perfect conditions. Caves, cliffs, free standing monoliths and finally the small fisherman's village of Gjógv, from where their men has set out to sea in their small boats. Many would never return.

The route followed in this program more than any other, taught me that the best way - by far the best way - to experience the grandeur of the Faroes, is by kayak. See it yourself, and feel free to share or comment if you find it worthy.

It felt unreal to experience such perfect conditions.

Henk again

This weeks extra video is simply the lovely Henk again. He found this harmonica in a shop, in France I believe, and had to buy it. For weeks the instrument was at display in his cabin, before he got the courage to start and play. We had such a good time together in his boat. This is the kind of friendships you get, when you travel alone.

Safe travels!

Life on Mykines

Ten people live here. Only one tiny pier protect the boat landing from the open Atlantic, all other sides of the island are steep bird cliffs. It is simply an extremely extreme place, but ever so beautiful. Eight months of the year, plus stormy days in summer, they rely on helicopter to reach the bigger islands to the east. To the west, there's only the sea.

The houses in the village are mainly abandoned in wintertime. 

Katrina

Tourists coming here are mainly those who can afford to be "grounded" a day or two in bad weather. It is of course a dream come true for ornithologists or the average adventurer, but even most faroese people have not made the effort to see this awesome place, where you can get a bed and some grub in Kristianshus. They only have 35 beds, so booking is a good idea in high season. Katrina will take well care of you.

The making of an art gallery and a studio, along with a small hotel are in the process, but I do not know how far the work has come. Anyone know, please add info in the comments, and I will fill in fresh facts here.

Esbern

I visited the island at three occasions back in 2009, for the puffin hunting (see episode 1),  Kristians Blaks concert (episode 4) and as part of the circumnavigation. Kayaking out here was unreal, as conditions were very favourable. Even so, I had two of the most dramatic experiences I ever had in a kayak out here, you will see one of them in this episode, and the other in the next. I never intended to be a "first timer", but as you will see in the program, I went were no man has been before. Kind of by accident. I really did not intend to do it, believe me - but I was sucked into it, literally ...

An old breed of sheep thrive on the green hills.

This weeks scrap-video:

True to new habit, I'll give you a bonus video. This one comes with no subtitles, but it is hardly needed, as the hoisting of fuel barrels and peculiar stairway-elevator speaks for themselves.

As you can see, Esbern and Katrina are totally dedicated to life on their island - as long as the kids also like it - but they sure have a bucketful of challenges in their daily life. How they cope through long hard winters, with a new storm thundering in with each low pressure, is more than I understand. But they have personalities built to endure.

Thanks so much for your hospitality and help and good luck with building a Mykines for the future!


... and here's the short bonus feature:

Catching Puffins

Esbern í Eyðansstovu with dinner.

This video might upset you. As a matter of fact, if you are a nice and "human" human being, it probably will. I just hope for the right reasons, as I am a firm believer in hunting any kind of wild animal that are plentiful. Hunting for food, that is. In this episode we kill puffins, quickly and surely, but as years have passed, it is clear that this species is facing troubled times around the coasts of the North Atlantic.

Ronja drew me ...

On my visit to the Faroe Islands in 2009, the situation for the puffins were not as critical as it has later come to be, so the limited hunting that was going on, posed no threat to the population.
    What seems to be the problem for survival of this, and several other coastal birds, is the lack of prey in the sea. Overfishing may be the cause, or perhaps climate change. Possibly both ... to my knowledge it is uncertain. But what this story is about, is an old tradition of how to make do with scarce resources, done by the finest of people in the roughest of surroundings. As if the Faroe Islands were not isolated in themselves, this island is the the most remote of 'em all ...

If you're up to it, watch the episode - puffin hunting on Mykines - not for the faint-hearted!

As far as my experience goes, puffins hate solitude...

Mr. Oosterweijk's failed courtesy...

The Faroes is, no doubt, a tough place in more than one way, something my soon after good friend Henk Oosterwijk experienced when he sailed into Thorshavn in his tiny boat, flagging the "Dannebrog" - Danish banner - as his courtesy flag:

"Sogno de Oro" in Thorshavn.

    I spent quite a bit of time in Thorshavn, as you will see in later episodes. The town harbours (literally) a lot of interesting characters. Dutch Henk was just one of them. He continued around the world alone in his eight meter long (short) sailboat "Sogno de Oro".

He's looking at you, Henk!  ;)