Diving in Iceland

crack camping

See the episode above, and click on the images for better viewing, as in all my blog posts.

This time, I have visited Thingvellir, or rather Þingvellir, which has a special place in Icelands history. Since 1930 it has been a national park, and since 2004 it has been listed as a a World Heritage Site. This amazing place lies in a rift valley on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, literally in between the continental plates.

diving through the crack in Silfra

Diving in Silfra

There are many good dive spots in Iceland, most of them related to some kind of geothermal or seismic activity. I met Tobias Klose that is running dive.is, a great company providing the best of equipment and security. It is fun to get to know people that show true enthusiasm for their work, and Tobias seems to have found his place in the world. He sent Andri Ómarsson to guide me.
    Silfra is one of the most spectacular destinations for any diver looking for spectacular scenery. No live to see at all, but who needs fish when you can stretch your arms out and touch two continental shelves?! This is unlike any dive, any place - strongly recommended.

the crack on the bed of Thingvellir

Andri Ómarsson and Gunnar - great buddies

Kleifarvatn

This lake is found only half an hours drive south of Reykjavik, in a desolate volcanic landscape.
    After an earthquake in 2000, the lake started draining by one centimetre per day, but it is still there, so I assume the crack has later been clogged up. What emerged in the southern end of the lake after the quake, was some holes from where gas and hot water stream out, followed by shivers and rumbles.

Alþingi

What Thingvellir is most known for, is that the "Althing" found place here from 930 until 1798, being the parliament of Iceland from the time when it took 17 days for the most remote chieftain to reach the supreme legislative and judicial authority of the country. Iceland was not easily travelled back in those days, so it took a while, even if this place was chosen partially because of its convenient location...
     The law speaker spoke from the Lögberg, the law rock, and was elected for periods of three years, in an amazingly open democracy.

Hellisheidi geothermal power station

Geothermal power

Five major geothermal power plants provides about a quarter of the nation's energy. In addition to electricity, the geothermal water heat up and provide hot water for most buildings in Iceland. Hydro power makes up for the rest of the electricity need, making Iceland close to 100% nice on the environmental clean energy scale (read more in Scientific American). If they only could run those monster trucks on batteries, then I would be really satisfied with them (more about those monsters in a later episode...).
    Hellisheidi geothermal power plant is  actually the biggest of its kind worldwide, quite a cool thing to visit, bot to see the drill holes all over the mountain (vulcano) and the station itself, with its visitors centre.

inside Hellisheidi geothermal power station

above Hellisheidi geothermal power station

Diving in Dahab II

Puffer Fish, only deadly if eaten.

This is what to look for.

We were only in Dahab for three days, of which two were diving. The Bishbishi camp was recommended to us, and I will gladly pass on the recommendation, as Jimmy and his mates offer a safe and inexpensive place to sleep, with whatever advice and arrangements you would need.

Jimmy Dahab with hat, and Oula Dahab.

This is typically your first impression.

Jim was the best possible buddy.

After the first perfect days, the wind picked up, but Aqua Divers knew of a sheltered spot a short drive to the south. Visibility was reduced because of the agitated water, and the waves kept some of the sunlight out, but the experience was never the less very good.

Jim, my experienced buddy from yesterday (read Diving in Dahab I) took me on a drift dive along the corals, not much deeper than 25 meters, reducing air consumption. The first of two dives lasted just about one hour, which is more than I've done in one single dive before.

porcupine fish

colourful one ...

total relaxation

octopussy

funny wormlike thing

Even if nothing appears out of the big blue, there are so much to look at, and having a buddy you trust makes the pleasure even greater. One has to wonder why nature has created all these colours and shapes. The intricate systems of fish depending on certain corals for survival, the fine balance with water temperature and acidity of the seas. All these accurately tuned mechanisms that our generation of humans are putting at grave risk, in our selfish quest for "higher living standard". Our wonderful planet would for certain be much better off without homo sapiens.

Geometric Moray, the most common moray in the Red sea.

small scorpion fish, according to Jim

blue spotted puffer

Maybe the fight for the water world is already lost, or maybe it can still be saved. The word "maybe" is popping up far to often, when it comes to human interference in nature. There is so much we do not know, and science has a hard time keeping up with accelerating changes. We remain ignorants in so many fields, but still act as if we knew. Or actually ever more often do even worse than that, when we do have the knowledge, but ignore it for the sake of short term benefits.

Milad Sawires is diving instructor at Aqua Divers in Dahab - recommended!!

Go get your dive mask, be sure not to touch anything and try to understand what our pollution, plastic, CO2 and overfishing are exterminating. Then use your vote, your shopping habits and your voice - in order make a difference!

Riding across Iceland

My stuff and Strokkur

Most tourists spend far to little time on Iceland, barely allowing time to visit the "The Golden Triangle" of Gullfoss, Geysir and Thingvellir. These are all well worth seeing, but please show this island of sagas more respect, and venture further and stay longer. Let my series be an introduction, even if my three months there only allowed me to explore the western half of Iceland.

The bike

I chose the bike, with a trailer as main mean of transport. A Trek / Gary Fisher Genesis 29" was the perfect bike for the job, along with my Bike Bob trailer, with suspension on the wheel. They did a great job on the long stretches of rough gravel and wet dirt.

The powerful falls at Gullfoss.

Paul Olai-Olssen and a "teddy-horse".

A beautiful multitude of colours.

The Horses

Riding an Icelandic horse is one of the most Icelandic experiences you can have. This cosy creature reminds of a crossing between a teddy bear and a camel. For hundreds of years, it has been bread towards reliability and sturdiness. It should "tölt" (the typical Icelandic gait) well and generally behave as a nice horse. If it fails in this, it will be eaten, as horse meat is among the best I have eaten. The result is a wonderful race of multicoloured, hard working horses that has been kept isolated from all other horses ever since the viking-era.

Samúel Örn Erlingsson became a good friend.

Crossing one of several rivers.

Àsa and her dog.

The trip

Arranging a ride in Iceland is very easy. I contacted Ishestar, but you can find several alternatives. What seemed a good alternative to me, was to join the trip from Kjóastaðir, situated near the southern end of the Kjölur trail. You should of course choose route according you your riding skill, in order to complete and enjoy the adventure. This I did not, but my background as a kayaker (balance) and long distance biker (endurance) did to some extent compensate for my total lack of horsemanship.

Hot pool and women - and cold bjór!

Undertaking a somewhat tough journey with 25 people you never knew before is a fascinating social experiment. The participants differed greatly in age and background, but ...

... a pleasant and surprising bonus for a single male traveller, was to realise that the majority of horse-tourists consist of charming women from all over Europe. This definitely boosted my spirit in times of hardship and pain...  ;)

Àsa, Hjalti and their bunch.

The nature

Landscapes of Iceland are something else. From the plane it seems that the lava flows have just frozen, and on the ground you will many places se steam and hot springs, escape routes in case of volcanic eruptions or other signs of thermic activities. The Island (referred to as "The Rock" among locals) are alive, in multiple meanings of the word...

No place is like Iceland, go explore, and make sure to enjoy the following episodes that will be presented her on Pauls Planet Blog!

Diving in Dahab I

My first encounter under water - just snorkelling, not even scuba-diving!

Jim pointed upwards ...

Dahab is a far more relaxed and laid-back dive site than Sharm el Sheik, which is also situated in Sinai. Formerly known for pot-smoking and hippies, the place is still easy going and welcoming, teaming with diving activities. "Teaming" might be somewhat exaggerated, by the way, as tourism is still low following the revolution and unrest in the northern part of Sinai. I am sorry on behalf of the locals that live off this industry, but happy for the coral reef, that enjoy a small break from intensive diving.

yep - an elephant submerged

I arrived by night bus from Cairo with my friend Haneen and we settled in the famed Beshi-Beshi camp. The first day we spent snorkelling at the blue hole. Water temperature is at the lowest at this time of the year, but still well above 20 degrees Celcius. The very first thing I bumped into was a huge turtle, which let me swim along until I was out of breath.

A well camouflaged ugly bastard...

… next to a lion fish

Learning to dive before she can swim!

I like it when I get to photograph ...

… the fish facing me!

In our second day, Haneen - who yet do not know how to swim - did a introduction dive with a great guide. He carefully monitored my skills on my first dive before giving me Jim as a buddy and letting us explore the area around the lighthouse. This spot is pretty much in the centre of town, but there were fish everywhere. Nothing big, but nice stuff. The wether was surprisingly much hotter than in Cairo and the wind was still, so we had really good conditions.

In the evening, we paid a modest 100 EGP (barely 13 Euro) per person going on a ATV-safari up in the wadi between the cracked mountains, where dinner were prepared beduin style. Lots of good food under the moon and the stars, and some jolly guides singing songs for us before the return. Very touristic, for sure, but fun and nice, with no stress or hurry to anything. My bike needed a few fixes on the way (leaking gasoline and no head lights), but in this country you can make miracles with a string and a wire.

Dusty after ATV-safari. Mainly me, driving behind ...

Total stress-less!  :o)

 I will tell you more in the next post, this is only to give a taste of what is so easily available, at a very reasonable price.

OK, here's the turtle again:

Still afraid of Egypt? Don't be! I feel as safe here as at home.

Art in Reykjavik

local chocolate ... :)

"Paul i Vesterled" has now arrived in Iceland. I will explore many characters, places and phenomena in this and the six next episodes. But let's start with Reykjavik, literally "the bay of smoke", as the vikings found it.

hard times

At the time of my visit, Iceland had recently been through some tough shit brought upon them by some true assholes running their own banks. The spirit was nevertheless strong, and the colours and artistry seemed to strengthen the morale.

fast food (not kidding)

    In later years, the economy have proved to bounce back in a way few others would have managed. They work like maniacs and simply refuse to do as told. This must be where the viking guts went, when we waved it off from Norway.

Fjølnir Bragason - my tattoo artist in Reykjavik

Kolbrun and Ragnheidur

Chaemsri & Fjølnir

I always go looking for people with a story. I met several in Reykjavik, and could have chosen others for this episode, like my band-playing hairdresser. I was taken aback by the creativity all over the place and found my designer and my tattoo artist just perfect, presenting what goes on in this tiny big city. That is what it is - a mini metropole ...



So ... something for everyone in Reykjavik! Do follow Fjølnir on Facebook and see the great work of Íslenzka Húðflúrstofan, and as usual click on these photos to see them better.

Go visit.

Sailing to Iceland

We "clicked" immediately

What makes a big difference from one life to another, is each individual's ability to react to opportunities. I believe that an interesting life depends on profiting from surprising possibilities that sometimes appear from seemingly nowhere. Or from a small sailboat, like in Thorshavn in the Faroes, the day Magnar showed up.

"Can I get a lift?"

My plan was to go to Iceland, I just had not figured out how. When the charming "Mevinn" moored in Thorshavn, and the solo sailor aboard would let me come along, the problem was solved before it even became one.

in memory of Magnar Grødem

I was lucky, not only to get an adventure under sail, but to get to know a young man who followed his dream. Magnar named his boat "Mevinn", which he explained as a spelling of the Norwegian word "medvind" in his local dialect. It means "tail wind" in English. When I think of Magnar, however, I like to think of another meaning of the word, also derived from his dialect. "We win". And I do believe that Magnar, and other people who follow their heart, win. There can be no losers when you stand up for your desires and do what you know is right for you, just as Magnar did.

Magnar only got to be 30 years old. He is lost at sea, after kayaking north of Stavanger not long after this episode was recorded. His kayak was found, but what actually happened remains a mystery.

The family got to see the episode only after his assumed death, and approved with the way Magnar is shown. They also agreed to include the raw interview from the boat, which follows below.

As I later understood from his twin brother, Magnar was not much of a talker, but during five days at sea he could not escape my questions. So, mostly for friends and family, with no subtitles and crude edit, here is 25 minutes of small talk in the boat.

Sail in peace, Magnar.